My Textile Adventure - Jaipur 2017

BAGRU - A BLOCK PRINTING VILLAGE

I was fortunate enough to visit India in October 2017. I spent most of my time in the city of Jaipur in the state of Rajasthan. Jaipur is well known for it’s huge block printing industry. A highlight of my trip was to visit the block printing village of Bagru just outside of Jaipur. Bagru has been block printing for generations, over 400 years. I witnessed every step of the block printing process.

Firstly I visited the artisans that carve the printing designs onto wooden blocks.

Carving the Wooden Blocks

Carving out the design template.

I loved seeing all the blocks stacked up on the shelves of his shop waiting for designs to be carved into them.

Wooden Blocks

The final product, beautiful designs, beautiful blocks.

The next step of the process was visiting the printing artisans. I could have watched this man block printing all day. The speed and precision of his work was so impressive.

Block Printing

A block printing artisan starting a new piece of fabric. He dips the wooden block into the tray behind him filled with dye and then presses the block down onto the fabric.

Progress!

Fabric Drying

The final piece drying in the sun. Sunlight also helps to fix the dye to the fabric.

One of the most famous and interesting styles of block printing done in Bagru is the Dabu “mud resist” method.

Dabu Mud Resist Printing

Wooden blocks are dipped into mud instead of dye to print the designs onto the fabric. Materials such as sawdust and sand are then sprinkled on top of the printed mud designs to help the mud dry before the dyeing process.

A mud pit.

Indigo Dyeing

This is a vat approx 10 to 12 feet deep which contains naturally fermented plant based indigofera Indigo dye. The fabric printed with mud is then dipped into this vat for dyeing. The dried mud “resists” the indigo dye and hence is left a white/neutral colour. The background or non printed parts of the fabric are dyed an indigo colour. Fabrics are then dried outside in the sun and once dry the mud is removed to reveal the non-dyed parts of the fabric. This process may be repeated many times to product different shades of indigo blue. An amazing process!

Bagru Artisans

A wonderful and welcoming Bagru family that are indigo dyers. The indigo vat is in the background against the wall (sensibly it is covered up when not in use). Such a privilege to meet this family.

An example of mud resisted, block printed fabric.

And now my turn…

Block printing 101

And here I am block printing my first masterpiece. It’s strangely addictive but certainly not easy. I think I need at least another 20 years of practice! I do however wear my creation with pride (I made it into an infinity scarf).

The Fabrics

The end result. Beautiful block printed fabrics neatly stacked on the shelves ready to be sold.

Visiting the village of Bagru was a dream come true for me. Learning and meeting the artisans of every part of the block printing process was just so amazing. An experience I will never forget. It really confirmed to me why I love block printing so much. The earthy organic and handmade nature of the process, coupled with the highly skilled carving, printing, dyeing artisans involved, is truly exceptional. I do hope this ancient textile industry will continue to thrive. A definite challenge in this modern world.